The pants break is the fold of fabric above the bottom of the front of the pants leg. Essentially, it’s where the hem ‘breaks’ or meets the shoe. This season, having a pant break is the best portrayal a man’s ability to dress well.
The pants shouldn’t rise too high up the calve when sitting down, and when standing up, you shouldn’t be able to see any of the sock or crop any of your shoe.
DRESS CODES VS. STYLE
Opt for a crop that defines your personal style.
While the break is crucial for traditional trousers, there is plenty of room to adjust the break to suit your own style. But first, consider this: how formal is occasion is that you’re going to attend? And, how smart do you want to appear? Overall, it’s important to avoid the dreaded sack-suit look, where the pants drags at the heals, or the very high-cut leg, which some might consider inappropriate for a formal suit.
A subtle break is the best length semi-formal and formal environments — weddings, black tie and the corporate office.
Men should aspire for a subtle break over the top of their shoe with formal pants. Avoid full breaks in today’s fashion arena, as well as no breaks the latter can undo all that hard work you put into a sophisticated tux, and appear cheap instead, with a cropped pant.
For a breezy, summer look loafers – sans socks – are the ultimate crop pant, anti-break footwear. Or a sneaker for a sporty look.
The formal rules of style may not always work with casual tailoring. Still big this season, casual trousers from linen pants to chinos and jeans come available short or cropped. Shorter cuts are often styled with casual sneakers and shirts. We see more and more men opting for casual pants, hemmed around one and half inches above the cuff of the shoe, paired with casual shirting and slim low profile sneakers.
CUFFS VS. STRAIGHT HEM
The casual cuff is seeing a resurgence.
Pants turn-ups or cuffs are a great touch to casual styles (think chinos and linen) but they’re not fit for formal wear, as general rule.
As a rule, flat fronts the more formal style of pant should have no cuffs , single-pleated pants are deemed versatile, and two pleats should always have cuff (British mid-century).
HOW TO ALTER IT
If you’ve got a new pair of pants that need hemming or a favorite pair of trousers that are too long, getting the length and the stitch right, is important. The key? Blind hemming.
There’s nothing worse than being able to see the hem of the pant. If you’re uncertain of the length, ask your tailor to retain as much excess fabric as possible, just in case the hem needs to be taken back down again. The other word of caution when altering: wear low-cut shoes, not high-cut boots.
When the pants are fitted and the boots are on, the pants look great. As soon as men switch in a pair of low-cut shoes, the cut of the pants is too high and looks awkward.
WHAT ABOUT WIDE-LEG?
A relaxing of the iconic slim-fit pant thanks to the Japanese and British mid-century designers has seen a push for roomier fit pant, in a wide-leg.
“Men seem to be enjoying the opportunity to wear comfortable pants that are versatile with street wear. But keep the length short, to pack a style punch, avoid your shoe being swallowed up.
“The wide-leg pant is, indeed, a trend, and should be purchased only after you have a invested in a pant with a regular break.
“Have your wardrobe staples in order before getting too experimental: it’s better to purchase a piece of clothing that’s versatile with many looks, Not a pair of trousers that only work in limited circumstances.”